where do you buy the receiver Y-harness and the battery Y-harness?
Brushless clod advice
- Thread starter InitialVic
- Start date
clod_happy
Active Member
Brushless help
hey guys, I'm thinking of going brush-less with my clod, but I'm totally new to this and need help. I've read a few of the posts, but I wanted a straight answer.
I am looking at the Castle Creations 1/10 Sidewinder Sport ESC + 5700 kV and had a few questions:
I know that the rear motor has to be reversed, how is this done?
when connecting the 2 esc's to the receiver, I read somewhere that one of the red wires has to be cut. is it the red wire coming out of the esc or one of the red wires on the 'y' adapter?
for now I am still using NIMH batteries (maybe lipo in the future). I currently have a new 5000mah 7.2v battery and wanted to know:
how much run time can I expect?
will the stock gears hold up? (I am using Robinson pinions and full bearings)
anything that I missed or any other info is appreciated.
thanks.
hey guys, I'm thinking of going brush-less with my clod, but I'm totally new to this and need help. I've read a few of the posts, but I wanted a straight answer.
I am looking at the Castle Creations 1/10 Sidewinder Sport ESC + 5700 kV and had a few questions:
I know that the rear motor has to be reversed, how is this done?
when connecting the 2 esc's to the receiver, I read somewhere that one of the red wires has to be cut. is it the red wire coming out of the esc or one of the red wires on the 'y' adapter?
for now I am still using NIMH batteries (maybe lipo in the future). I currently have a new 5000mah 7.2v battery and wanted to know:
how much run time can I expect?
will the stock gears hold up? (I am using Robinson pinions and full bearings)
anything that I missed or any other info is appreciated.
thanks.
Z2_CANTILEVER
Well-Known Member
I have both the 4600 and 5700 systems as I am sure a lot of members on here do.
1.) Just a general suggestion but if you have a heavier clod (like integy gearcases or some steel parts or its a backyard basher in general) than go with the 4600. If you are trying to go BALLISTIC with a lighter clod than go 5700 (even the lighter clod will fly with the 4600 and some guys even prefer it.)
2.)reversing the rear motor is simply done by reversing the connection of wires. Instead of connecting white to white, black to black, red to red like the front motor you just swap the black and whites and leave red constant for example. Don't worry it wont damage your system. Brushless does not have the same "polarity" concerns as does a traditional motor.
3.) don't cut anything as far as running both esc's to the receiever. CC sidewinder sytems as with their others are designed to be run in parallel, allowing the user to forgoe the business of cutting wires. All you have to do is get a servo y harness. I like Futaba since they have one reciever wire going into a dual receptor (that accepts both of your esc leads) instead of some companies making one wire spliced into two separate leads which creates in essence three sets of wores and more wire to bundle up.
4.) run time is hard to estimate, I am sure their are more seasoned vets that could give you a pretty accurate estimate. Main thing is you will have more run time with the nimh's using a brushless system than running them with brushed.
5.) In the future definetly go with Lipo to get the full potential of your system but be careful DO NOT USE MORE THAN 2s with 5700 system
clod_happy
Active Member
wow- thank you for all of the useful info!
justinsrad98
Well-Known Member
I have 4600 on 3s and this thing fly. I cant reach full speed. That's how fast it is... I will need a big parking lot to reach it full speed.
Yourtheman
Well-Known Member
Feel dumb to ask but do you have picture of what you explain? im not perfect in english :ack so i dont all understand what you explian....
Also, can we connect 2 motor on a speed Mamba Monster?
Brushless motors must have they're own ESC to run.
Reason is they ''sense'' the rotor position to send current.
CANUCK CLOD
Well-Known Member
This thread has to be one of the best brushless info threads for Clods I have ever seen. Thank you for making it a sticky.
Looking at a dual CC sidewinder 4600KV combo running 2 x Rhino 4900Mah 2S 20C lipo (stock gear but Robinson Racing Pinions) in a Clodzilla 4 chassis.
Now here is my question:
What is everyone using to beef up the axels/gears to handle the extra power of brushless? Are most going with solid axels like the TTR ones? If so, what about the front...
Thanks again :rock
Looking at a dual CC sidewinder 4600KV combo running 2 x Rhino 4900Mah 2S 20C lipo (stock gear but Robinson Racing Pinions) in a Clodzilla 4 chassis.
Now here is my question:
What is everyone using to beef up the axels/gears to handle the extra power of brushless? Are most going with solid axels like the TTR ones? If so, what about the front...
Thanks again :rock
Pretty long thread that this was talked about with the POS integy hd tubes I had but yes straight axles and cvds all the way I have yet to have issues with those but its the gears that will have issues with the power. They hold for awhile but not forever so have spares, when I can ever get mine back together I am gonna try a mixture of aluminum gear and stock.
MIP ball diff is nice as well but ttr gonna have anymore made but they last forever other then replacing the balls and rings which are easy to get....get the rings for the AE rc10GT nitro same thing mip used.
MIP ball diff is nice as well but ttr gonna have anymore made but they last forever other then replacing the balls and rings which are easy to get....get the rings for the AE rc10GT nitro same thing mip used.
W
William
Guest
Carefull with those batteries, 20c is bottom barrel or lower of what can be considered safe. 25 or even better 30c would be a safer-better choice. Since you say 2x that means 2 packs on the truck, one for each ESC? If so then ok not as bad but don't run just one 20c ballery or you may ''puff'' it.
A BL system can draw huge amps, and on a big truck even more so I try to tell people don't buy under 30c packs.
CANUCK CLOD
Well-Known Member
Yeah, was worried about the batteries as well. Will be running 1 2S pack for each ESC. The Lipos are from my boat but I plan on getting some 35C or better packs when funds allow. :wish
CANUCK CLOD
Well-Known Member
Checked TTR's site today...no stock on CVD or solid rears :-(
Oddly enough, they list the ball diffs still??? Maybe the website is out of date?
Just want to set it up right so I don't blow it up on the 1st run. :tong
Good luck with calling I have tried numerous times and get the machine and tried for a month by emails to get Darren to respond to parts I needed which he never did so I gave up.
He is selling whats left of the ball diffs and once their out thats it, I know a friend got his from there not long ago.
Hit up jps for the axles he might still have some :tmb
He is selling whats left of the ball diffs and once their out thats it, I know a friend got his from there not long ago.
Hit up jps for the axles he might still have some :tmb
rc_racer57
New Member
they should save us all the hassle, make a darn twin motor ESC for brushless crawlers/clods, etc.......you would think the ESC companies would read these posts and figure out that there IS a demand for these still, not everyone runs a single motor truck. That's just my $.02 worth.
Not really feasable with brushless.
The way brushless works is by sensing the rotor position as it spins, so that means running 2 motors it's just easier to put in 2 ESC's since it needs 2 completely seperate sensing systems. Itball boils down to how a brushless motor works, totally different than brushed.
rc_racer57
New Member
what about making a dual sensor esc, or going sensorless like a mamba system?