Brushless clod advice

CrumpleZ0ne

Well-Known Member
good idea, william is full of them. ;) ...and use some thermal grease between the motor and sink for maximum heat xfer ability. :)
 

Ball Racing

Well-Known Member
A clod even though has 2 motors still puts most of the load on the rear motor, which we use motors designed for 1/10th scale light trucks, buggies,
So it will always tend to run warm.
Haven said that 140-150 is Plenty safe in a clod set-up.
The surface you run on, the amount of time you stay in throttle, how much brake you use, the tire weight,(rotating) truck weight and gearing make a difference, the outside air temp makes alot of difference so you are in a safe "ball park".
As today you may have been in grass, and doing long runs,
tomorrow you may be on concrete doing short runs, today may have been 60 degrees out, tommorrow may be 95 outside.

The ESC, and Battery temps usally tell you how hard you are maxxing the system before motor temp alone does..
Now some motors run warmer than others,
Some are not capable of pulling enough amps to heat your ESC or Battery,
and there are some motors that pull so hard, it can heat the battery beyond safe temps quickly unless you regear.

LOTS of things that lead up to a safe level, of temps, and loads across the board.
 

Budhatrain

Moderator
Moderator
I think its a good idea that your conscience of motor temp. You probably already have done this but are your front and rear sync'd together- as much as possible at least?

I just got off the phone with Castle Creations and asked this very same question and Berny said that 165 degrees is good zone.. obviously the internals will be hotter than that. I think I read in the manual that over 200 is dangerous/ damage. I run lipo's and same thing here- battery is nice and cool and motors are warm- not like I can't touch them, blisters, but warm.
 

Savage03

bad trader
When I ran my clod in the sand I had 80 on the motor and 70 I think on the esc's and thats a 15+lb clod, dual lipos and 4600 motors. Think 5700 are to much I had them very briefly and traded them in for the 4600's and have been plenty happy with the power they give.
 

Z2_CANTILEVER

Well-Known Member
From what the people on this site have told me if you want to run a 20c LiPo I should have 2 odf them, one for each ECS's
Ijust set up my clod with a 5700's and Sidewinder ECS's, I'm still experimenting with mine too. I ended up running a sigle 35C 6400 mAh and it seems to do just fine. The 5700's seems to be plenty fast on 2 cells, Not sure what 3 would be like

You can't run 3s with the 5700 system in less you want to damaged it.
 

Z2_CANTILEVER

Well-Known Member
is 5700 motor is too much?
I have 2 5700s in a CPE terminator with a 3700 mah 2s 25C battery and it HAULS BALLS. It has solid "pick up" but is built for top end speed....like 55-60. I also have 2 4600 systems in another clod (esp II chassis with integy cast diffs, so it is heavy) with 2 5000mah, 3s 35C batteries and that thing has MONSTER TORQUE. I have twisted two axle shafts, forcing me to go to MIP hardened ones but top speed isnt as high. It gets up and moves but maybe does 35-40.
 

hyperstang00

Well-Known Member
4600 on 3s is more than enuff...i'm sure any of the hawaii guys will vouch for that...i was running a max amps 6500 3s rated at 35c...

it's what i used to run in our outlaw class...i now moved down to 2s to control it a bit better...waiting on my 2s 40c lipos to come in, as the 20-30c lipos lose a bit of punch for the dual motors..

i kept breaking/bending parts on the 3s with the 4600s...the punch control was also set to 70%, to help keep it from just flipping over right off the start...
This thing is a pure ANIMAL man!!!!
 

hyperstang00

Well-Known Member
You mean the ESC?

yeah....I think the "PRO" you could run the 3s Lipo, but I currently run the mamba max, not the pro 5700 in my TXT, and with 2s lipo...she is barely under control with the 2s. At 3S...she would thermal out.
 

Ball Racing

Well-Known Member
The sidewinder ESC is not rated for 3S li-po with the 5,700 motor.
The mamba max ESC can do the 3s li-po witht he 5,700 motor.
And the mamba Pro ESC, can do just about anything, along with the mamba monster.
If you had a mamba max esc and it thermaled, you needed to change your gearing.
 

DEVASTATOR

Defiance Racing
4600's are plenty fast, 5700's are a small step faster. Both however have awesome off the line torque.......as in flip the truck on it's lid right where it sits and that is just with 2S 40C Lipo. I race several Clods with 5700's on 2S 40C Lipo and they are wicked both in speed and torque on stock gearing. I can't imagine either set of motors on 3S even if they could handle it.

Also, you only need one battery for two systems. Y-harness the esc's into the receiver and Y-hraness both esc's for the battery and you're done. Real easy to do.
 

oxide80

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input everyone, I have smoked a few brushed motors running to hot, hate to do it to a new Bl system.
 

oxide80

Well-Known Member
I have been pricing motor heat sinks and fan units bor both, all seem pretty cheap. I was not even close to 200 F, but I will keep a close eye on it.
 

Hermit

Well-Known Member
My Mutts setup is duall sidwinders, 4600's, powerd by duall 2s 5000 40c lipos with 15 tooth pinions. Body sits kinda high so plenty air flow.
I am getting 145 deg. on the rear motor, 125 for the front.
111 deg. for the rear esc, and 101 for the front.

Any Idea how much more hotter it may be internally?


......I just got off the phone with Castle Creations and asked this very same question and Berny said that 165 degrees is good zone.. obviously the internals will be hotter than that. I think I read in the manual that over 200 is dangerous/ damage. ......
 

oxide80

Well-Known Member
not sure how much hotter it may be internally, I don t have a digital laser thermometer anymore to get a pin point reading. the TIC I am using from work is still pretty close. I'm still trial and error phase of this truck.
 
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