Bruiser, Mountaineer, Hilux Faq And Parts Index

Discussion in 'Tamiya RC Monster Truck Forum' started by ScaleManiac, May 17, 2006.

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  1. May 17, 2006 #1

    ScaleManiac

    ScaleManiac

    ScaleManiac

    Well-Known Member

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    Lets get this started here guys to help each other out.

    My spur gear is busted, or slipping how can I fix this

    The slipper gear on a bruiser or mounty can be replaced with a kyosho USA1 countergear.


    My drive shaft is worn badly, or busted, how can I fix this?

    The driveshaft from a pajero, and or universal joints from a Juggernaut can be swapped in. Pajero, or wrangler shafts fit perfect in the rear. Just cut and grind a flat spot for front use.

    I need new front hub (large) bearings, what, or where to find them?

    A 608 size bearing (the size used in skateboarding) has a bore of 8mm, an outer diameter of 22mm, and a width of 7mm


    I need new head, taillight, or marker lenses where can I get them?

    Go to the parts page http://rcgrabbag.com/store/index.htm here for the lenses. He makes them all, located at the bottom.



    Joker02
    Make sure you let people know that the Graupner 700 BB Turbo MOTOR won't fit. It's the one with the ball bearing, I have it.....yet to test it to see if it fits. But if I'm correct, the bearing housing doesn't let the motor fit into the transmission.
    Also if you get the regular 700 which DOES fit. You have to modify the front chassis brace, because I believe it's too long. I do know that you have to modify something for it to fit. Ask ThorBob, he installed one on his.


    dirtgypsy2
    here is a link to the corect graupner motor needed. it is the gr3308 here is the link: http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed700.htm]hobby lobby[/url]

    $28 not too shabby!
    joker you are correct. the bb version of the motor does not fit I have tried it. the 700 bolt right up but is a bit longer. you either need to move the tranny cross member back which renders the front radio box mount useless, cut out the front cross member to fit around the new motor, or like thorbob make a whole new mount.


    Can anyone tell me the gear ratio?
    kpn said: Well guys, after hunting for the gear ratio's of the stock tranny, and not getting anywhere, I figured it out myself.

    First I removed the endbell of a motor and marked the armature for reference. I then counted how many turns of the motor it took to get 1 turn on the output shaft. Here is what I got.

    Low speed (4x4) - 23:1
    Med speed - 11:1
    High speed - 5.5:1

    I then took the tranny apart and counted teeth to see if my numbers above match the gearing in the tranny. Here is what I got.

    52 tooth spur (plastic gear) with a 10 tooth motor pinion. This is the primary reduction and gives you high speed at 52/10 or 5.2:1 ratio. This matches my eyeball measurement above of 5.5:1. The second possible reduction is an 11 tooth gear turning a 23 tooth gear for a 2.09:1 reduction. 2.09 x 5.2 gives you a 10.87 reduction. This too matches my 11:1 eyeball estimate above. The third possible reduction gives you yet another 11 tooth to 23 tooth reduction or 2.09 x 10.87 for a 22.7 reduction. This too matches my eyeball observation of 23:1. So, to sum it up, the stock tranny's ratio's are:

    1st gear (low speed, 4x4) - 22.7:1
    2nd gear (med speed) - 10.87:1
    3rd gear (high speed) - 5.2:1

    Keith

    Quote from Dave engle
    All of these setting are true if the transmission is stock.

    Shifting rod pushed in to the transmission is third gear or "Top Gear." Two wheel drive.
    Shifting rod in the middle position is "Second Gear." Two wheel drive.
    Shifting rod pulled to the outter position is first gear or "Low gear." 4 wheel drive.

    Axle/kunckle shim trick

    This is the best thrifty home remedy I know of for tightening up those king pins.

    It all starts with an aluminum beverage container. These are the most underrated pieces of shim stock I know of. They are cheap once emptied, tough and only about .008 thick.

    Out of the side wall cut 3 MM wide strips. Then with a tool like a pair of twisters or thin long nettle nose pliers bend pieces of the strip into the shape shown below.

    [​IMG]

    Your going to want the end tabs to be long enough to come close to one of the screws that hold down the king pin plates. These tabs are what will hold the shim in place.

    [​IMG]


    Tighten this down and you?ll see most of the slop is gone. You?ll see that most of the only slop left is in the direction of the axle. In and out. This can be tightened further. But this part can get fussy.

    We need to make ready for a little glue like silicone to be used. Take apart the assembled shim and knuckle arm. Clean the outside of the shim and the inside of the knuckle where the king pin rides with an alcohol or thinner. Reassemble the king pin and shim stock but don?t tighten it down all the way. Then cut a 3 MM square piece out of your strip stock.
    Paint the thinnest possible layer of silicone on both sides of this piece of shim stock. It really doesn?t need to cover it entirely, but a good layer helps. Slip this piece between the shim and the knuckle arm or king pin plate and snug it down. On the bottom pins put it on the plate side. On the top pins put it on the knuckle side. This arrangement of the square shims will also help the tires to look straighten up when you are done.

    [​IMG]

    Now, this remedy will very from vehicle to vehicle. Wear and personal taste will always play a roll. But I need to add two things here. First, DON?T OVER SHIM. Second, dry fitting will help you to know how much shim works for your application. Over shimming will damage the king pins. This will shorten their life. Making them smaller and able to break easier. So put in only just enough shim to remove the slop.
    Good luck with your project.

    [​IMG]

    Coverting Traxxas TQ 3 for Bruiser duty

    Guys - here are some pictures of my converted TQ3
    radio which is capable of 3 positions on the third channel. The first picture
    below shows where I mounted the 3 way (center off) switch. Radio Shack
    sells these. It must be a center-off switch. I labeled low gear (4wd) as
    shown, but that is up to you, as servo reversing could change this.

    [​IMG]

    This next picture shows the wiring.

    [​IMG]

    Just transfer the three wires tothe three post on your new switch. Make sure the gray wire goes to the middle of the switch, the other two don't matter, because servo reversing will reverse the throw if needed. I had to extend all the wires because of where I mounted my switch. I used similiar gauge wire and soldered the extensions to the old wire and used clear heat shrink tubing insulation
    over the connections. Your choice. On the black wire I simply soldered
    on the extension to the bottom of the existing switch rather than disconnecting
    it like the other two wires. This just made the job a little quicker. Also,
    before splitting the case you will need to remove the crystal and the battery
    cover. Hope this helps

    Engle Manufacturing Inc.
    www.angelfire.com/super2/rcwebpage/index.html

    Bruiser Chassis Design. You can find mthomson wheels and steering arms here as well as spacemutant's hubs and steering kits as well.
    www.meer.net/~fitzgibbon/BCD/BCDhome.html

    RC4WD
    Aluminum Wheels, Bearing Kit, Screw Kit, Booties, Imex Tires, Wheel
    Hubs, Tranny Plugs, Grommets, Shock Mounts! Coming soon aluminum radio
    box!
    www.rc4wd.com

    Notorious Off-Road R/C Specialties
    They make aluminum rear bumpers as well as aluminum lower shock mounts.
    notoriousoffroad.freewebspace.com/index.html

    Here you can find Imex tires for your bruiser or mounty!
    imex.clodparts.com/tires.html

    If you want a smooth running tranny, bearings are the way to go! Here is a full BB upgrade!
    www.thisrocks.freeserve.co.uk

    If you need a stock part or a rolling chassis to a complete truck...or a custom project done...we have just the man! He also makes some nifty storage boxes for the bruiser and mounty as well!
    bruiserbuilder@cox.net

    Boca bearing makes a bearing kit for the bruiser to make your runner roll smooth!
    www.bocabearing.com

    If you want to add some more power to your bruiser or mounty, Graupner has the motor for you. You will have to do some slight modifications.
    The bb version of the motor does not fit I have tried it. the 700 bolt right up but is a bit longer. you either need to move the tranny cross member back which renders the front radio box mount useless, cut out the front cross member to fit around the new motor, or like thorbob make a whole new mount.
    www.hobby-lobby.com/speed700.htm


    If you need some replacement plastic parts for your hilux, there are 2 people on ebay that have been selling the bumper brackets as well as the hub covers.
    customautomach@aol.com for hilux bumper brackets
    raemin for hub covers,

    Not really specifically aftermarket, but you can find parts on ebay as well as the buy sell and trade board located right here on RCMT

    Here are some informational sites that I have run across on the boards recently and in the past.

    Roby from Italy has one of the best Tamiya sites that I have ever seen! You can find online manuals and helpful information as well.
    www.tamiyaclub.com/roby/manuals.asp


    Here is the Kope site! Alot of useful dimensions etc here as well as some nice pics!
    www.kope.com/bruiser

    This is Zurru's site that has info on the bruisers as well as other vintage Tamiya's and the kyosho 4 Runners. It is available in english and german as well.
    www.zurru.de


    Keith AKA KPN scale hobbies single speed tranmission review

    Below is a pic of the layout of the truck I am finishing.

    [​IMG]


    Well guys, I thought I would share my experience with Matt's (scalehobbies.com) tranny so you guys will know more about it. Let me start by saying I think it is great that he and so many others make all these cool custom parts for these old trucks. Bruiserbuilder, RC4WD, Engle, etc all come to mind.

    Now for the tranny. I am overall very pleased with it to date. It appears well constructed, except for a few minor issues you will see below. It is silky smooth and so quiet compared to the stock unit. It dyes easily (I died mine black with RIT dye sold at nearly any big store). Looks great in black with SS bolts. Includes 6 rubber sealed bearings. Is constructed with aluminum and stainless gears on hardened shafts.


    Below is a picture of the internal gearing. The lower most gear is stainless I believe. The upper two are aluminum. The small spur style gear is steel. I drilled the heavy stainless one to lower the weight. Not the best job, but it gets the job done.

    [​IMG]

    The scalehobbies tranny is so much lighter than the stock unit. With the motor installed, the unit was about half a pound. For comparison, the stocker with motor is pushing 2 lbs. Big weight savings. This is probably why it lifts the wheels off the ground with a fresh battery!


    I choose a stock motor - Trinity Midnight, Reverse rotation. It seems pretty potent to me for a stocker. I am using a Kimbrough 32 pitch, 52 tooth spur gear which fits perfectly to the adaptor on the tranny. I am using a Robinson 14 tooth spur on the motor. I use a Futaba MC-230 speed control which easily handles the motor and a 6 cell pack NiMH pack - Jetpack batteries.

    Performance Like I said before, it is silky smooth. Sounds very precise as it operates, unlike the noisy stocker. You get full time 4wd of course. With my gearing set-up, I am seeing a speed close to that of 2nd gear on the stock Bruiser tranny. Probably right around 8-10 mph. I think my motor is fairly high rpm (30k I am guessing). I think with a silver can stocker and even lower gearing on the spur/pinion, you could get pretty close to 1st gear on the bruiser. Matt's gearing choice are spot on for me. He is putting you at about midrange of the stock tranny and of course you can tweak from there with motor selection and gearing.

    Acceleration is very impressive. There is so little rotating mass compared to the stock one, that it spools up right now. It lifts the front wheels off the ground about 1/2" from a standstill with a fresh battery. Going backward a few mph and stabbing it will flip it on its back. It actually started to bend the rear leafs from all the strain. I quickly backed off and added the radius arms for more support to the rear end. I am also using Forrest's new rear axle and will be giving it a thourouh testing with this set-up.

    on to a few of the negatives. Keep in mind these are relatively minor in my opinion.

    When mounted as shown, which also gives you the best layout as far as driveshaft set-up, you must use a reverse rotation motor. As you know, this limits your motor options severely. As it was, I found a new Trinity Midnight stock motor, reverse rotation on ebay for $10. You can also use the Kyosho magnetic mayhem reverse which is a 19 turn I believe. A tamiya silver can stocker should also work fine, as it has neutral timing I believe and can be ran in forward or reverse with no issues. The good news is you can turn the whole gearbox around and use a normal rotation motor. Only issue is the angles on the driveshaft get a little steeper for one side (can't recall), which wears them faster. I think it doesn't look quite as good mounted the other way also, that is why I choose to mount it like I did and live with the limited motor selection

    Involves a few quality issues which were easily remidied. The first was the little gear (first gear, which is inside the tranny) slipped under load on the shaft. It is a press fit on the shaft. Matt offered to fix it for free, but I came up with my own solution. I found some 1/4" mild steel shaft and simply drilled and pinned the gear in position. The normal shafts are hardened steel and cannot be drilled into, thats why I had to use a mild steel shaft instead. This fix took care of that issue. You can see the pics below of this fix.

    [​IMG]

    The next problem was a minor slop issue on that same shaft. Where the bearing went on this shaft it moved around a little, because the bearing pocket in the plastic case was a little sloppy. This is the same shaft that came out of the tranny and the spur gear was mounted to. The fix was simple. Add another 1/4" x 3/8" flanged bearing on the outside of the case, where the shaft comes out to give the shaft even more stabiltiy.


    Below are some pics of it mounted in a standard bruiser. Its a pretty clean mount with no extreme angles on the driveshafts or anything.

    [​IMG]



    Summary
    Overall I am very happy with Matt's tranny. I plan to drive this truck and that should prove the durability portion of the tranny out. However, that will take time. Right now I can say I am quite pleased with it and Matt is a great guy to deal with. Hope this helps all those who wondered about this tranny.

    Keith aka KPN

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

    Keith,
    Thanks for the surprise review
    Just a few updates for everyone. The lower gear in Keith's tranny is indeed a stainless steel gear. I have been bouncing back and forth between steel and aluminum, however I am only offering aluminum from now on. As for the the small gear slipping on the shaft in which Keith drilled and pinned, i have fixed that also. I am now putting a small weld on the gear to hold it to the shaft (which is what I was going to do to fix Keiths).
    I look forward to and comments to help make this a better product for you.
    Thanks
    Matt Scalehobbies.com


    ************************************
    Bruiser petition?
    There has been a few, here is one with close to 1,000 names. http://www.rcbuilder.homestead.com/
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 13, 2007
  2. Aug 17, 2007 #2

    Loaded_Heavy

    Loaded_Heavy

    Loaded_Heavy

    Formally Breaker 1-9

    Joined:
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    Mike this is some nice Tech for sure. I saw this when I joined RCC and didn't catch wind of it here also. I wanted to ask you, have you ever thought about doing what Olis-Mountaineer did for his knuckles? it looks like a real real nice setup. I seen it on the RCC sticky you made but doesn't seem he's posted here. Either way or route great tech.
     

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