J
justadork
Guest
So your shocks squeak? Lets make that go away. I only include the absolute most needed pics, if you need more help pics are linked, though.
The number one most important thing to prevent shock squeaks is not scratch the shaft or damage the "o" rings.
The number two most important thing is to make sure the shock is full of oil and no air is inside the shock. I'm going to help with that.
Something that?s important but not important, things you need to do this.... Exacto knife, Needle nose pliers, rag or something?s similar, 1500+ grit sand paper, good silicone shock oil made by Associated, Losi, HPI, Tamiya, Kyosho any name that is "SILICONE". Lets begin...
The items.
Today we are building a set of Tamiya TXT-1 Super Low Friction (achieved by Teflon and Fluorine) Damper set, Extra Long (fully threaded)
When building your shocks its important to make sure everything is free of debris and burrs, and also pre lubricated. Why? So as not to damage a part during assembly and also to make sure everything is as smooth as possible to begin with.
#1 Remove all parts from bags and parts trees; use an Exacto or side snips for plastic models to remove parts from tree. Use 1500 grit sand paper or if possible an even higher number to remove any flashing, the smoother the parts, the smoother and longer lasting the shock. (Just to give you an idea, I bought a set of Traxxas Big Bore's and built them and then protected them from dirt with Bad Horsy shock covers, they did not lose shock oil and did not get stick or sloppy for 4 years, and they started to squeak, Shock shafts were bent from jumping and bashing and racing, started to let oil out and air in)
#2 Pre-lubricate everything that moves in the shock, "o" rings, shaft, piston, spacers, bladder, anything! You can use shock oil, or you can use Team Associated Green Slime, which is supposed to absorb into the "o" ring and actually make the "o" ring last longer and seal better.
#3 Install, the seals, spacers, guides and what not.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock2.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock3.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock4.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock5.jpg
On these shocks you need to unscrew the bottom portion of the shock to insert the "o" ring. "O" ring inserted, next goes in the spacer and then the shaft guide. Now I screw the bottom part of the shock back on. Tight! (I guess this would almost be called a cartridge and Cap)
#4 we need to assemble the Shock shaft/Piston. So we take the shaft and insert an "e" or "c" clip on the lowest notch on the shaft. Slide the piston onto that, and secure with an "e" or "c" clip onto the next notch. Slide the built unit into the Shock Body.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock8.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock9.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock10.jpg
#5 next comes the Shock End. Wrap the shock shaft with a cloth; paper towel, rag, and rubber... anything to not scratch the shock shaft. Grab with a pair of needle nose pliers, and tighten the shock end until it is snug or tight... whatever you consider tight but not too tight.
Tada!
#6 Pour oil into the shock body, work the shaft up and down a few strokes to get the air out from under the piston. Don't let the piston go above the oil level, as on the down stroke oil will shoot up and most likely stain your clothes or get in your eye (personal experience, it does not hurt however you can't see worth beans.) Fill to the top of the shock body. Place in a shock stand of some sort to allow ALL the air bubbles to exit the shock. You may need to flick the side of the shock and re work the shaft through its stroke to get the desired results. This process takes a while, depending on the shock, the smoother the parts the easier it is, the more rough the parts the more the air bubbles cling to stuff.
Look at these cool FREE Shock Stands, #1 An Aluminum can with the tab turned around, #2 (for the guys who are like me and only drink from Glass Bottles) the Electric stove grill!
Bad
Good
More pics of Bubbles!
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock17.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock19.jpg
#7 Install Shock Bladder (If supplied) onto shock body, Tighten lid hand tight, no tools needed and dry off excess oil, work shock through stroke to make sure that it is smooth and is capable of 100% travel. If it won't go 100% through its stroke, loosen shock cap a little and work shock through stroke, dry off excess oil and tighten cap, repeat IF needed!
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock12.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock13.jpg
#8 Install spring and spring cup retainer, if you have shock covers install those now too. And now mount on vehicle.
Tada!
Hope this helps
Zach aka Justadork aka TwEEkErZaCh aka tatertot80 aka Marmot
The number one most important thing to prevent shock squeaks is not scratch the shaft or damage the "o" rings.
The number two most important thing is to make sure the shock is full of oil and no air is inside the shock. I'm going to help with that.
Something that?s important but not important, things you need to do this.... Exacto knife, Needle nose pliers, rag or something?s similar, 1500+ grit sand paper, good silicone shock oil made by Associated, Losi, HPI, Tamiya, Kyosho any name that is "SILICONE". Lets begin...
The items.
Today we are building a set of Tamiya TXT-1 Super Low Friction (achieved by Teflon and Fluorine) Damper set, Extra Long (fully threaded)
When building your shocks its important to make sure everything is free of debris and burrs, and also pre lubricated. Why? So as not to damage a part during assembly and also to make sure everything is as smooth as possible to begin with.
#1 Remove all parts from bags and parts trees; use an Exacto or side snips for plastic models to remove parts from tree. Use 1500 grit sand paper or if possible an even higher number to remove any flashing, the smoother the parts, the smoother and longer lasting the shock. (Just to give you an idea, I bought a set of Traxxas Big Bore's and built them and then protected them from dirt with Bad Horsy shock covers, they did not lose shock oil and did not get stick or sloppy for 4 years, and they started to squeak, Shock shafts were bent from jumping and bashing and racing, started to let oil out and air in)
#2 Pre-lubricate everything that moves in the shock, "o" rings, shaft, piston, spacers, bladder, anything! You can use shock oil, or you can use Team Associated Green Slime, which is supposed to absorb into the "o" ring and actually make the "o" ring last longer and seal better.
#3 Install, the seals, spacers, guides and what not.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock2.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock3.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock4.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock5.jpg
On these shocks you need to unscrew the bottom portion of the shock to insert the "o" ring. "O" ring inserted, next goes in the spacer and then the shaft guide. Now I screw the bottom part of the shock back on. Tight! (I guess this would almost be called a cartridge and Cap)
#4 we need to assemble the Shock shaft/Piston. So we take the shaft and insert an "e" or "c" clip on the lowest notch on the shaft. Slide the piston onto that, and secure with an "e" or "c" clip onto the next notch. Slide the built unit into the Shock Body.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock8.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...cks/Tshock9.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock10.jpg
#5 next comes the Shock End. Wrap the shock shaft with a cloth; paper towel, rag, and rubber... anything to not scratch the shock shaft. Grab with a pair of needle nose pliers, and tighten the shock end until it is snug or tight... whatever you consider tight but not too tight.
Tada!
#6 Pour oil into the shock body, work the shaft up and down a few strokes to get the air out from under the piston. Don't let the piston go above the oil level, as on the down stroke oil will shoot up and most likely stain your clothes or get in your eye (personal experience, it does not hurt however you can't see worth beans.) Fill to the top of the shock body. Place in a shock stand of some sort to allow ALL the air bubbles to exit the shock. You may need to flick the side of the shock and re work the shaft through its stroke to get the desired results. This process takes a while, depending on the shock, the smoother the parts the easier it is, the more rough the parts the more the air bubbles cling to stuff.
Look at these cool FREE Shock Stands, #1 An Aluminum can with the tab turned around, #2 (for the guys who are like me and only drink from Glass Bottles) the Electric stove grill!
Bad
Good
More pics of Bubbles!
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock17.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock19.jpg
#7 Install Shock Bladder (If supplied) onto shock body, Tighten lid hand tight, no tools needed and dry off excess oil, work shock through stroke to make sure that it is smooth and is capable of 100% travel. If it won't go 100% through its stroke, loosen shock cap a little and work shock through stroke, dry off excess oil and tighten cap, repeat IF needed!
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock12.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e99/tate...ks/Tshock13.jpg
#8 Install spring and spring cup retainer, if you have shock covers install those now too. And now mount on vehicle.
Tada!
Hope this helps
Zach aka Justadork aka TwEEkErZaCh aka tatertot80 aka Marmot
