Blackfoot Faq And Steering Fix

Discussion in 'Tamiya RC Monster Truck Forum' started by william g, Jul 8, 2006.

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  1. Jul 8, 2006 #1

    william g

    william g

    william g

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    #58058 orig BlackFoot, (My WEBSITE has scans on the BF page)
    #58060 Monster Beetle
    #58110 Super BF
    #58192 King BF
    Tamiya changed the site around, so go here and look for your kit # for either the exploded view, or parts list.

    If you need a reader, Adobe acrobat reader is free from http://www.adobe.com

    Now made available from Tamiya USA, thanks guys.
    The phone # to tamiya USA is 1-800-tamiya-a


    A common problem on the orig Foot is dogbone wear.
    A good idea is add 1/8" to 1/4" spacers inside the rear shock bodies to help prevent excessive wear.


    A few people have asked what the orig BF adjustable motor mount looks like.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 4, 2007
  2. Jul 8, 2006 #2

    william g

    william g

    william g

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    Hey you guys with a King or Super BF listen up
    Tired of all that steering slop from the bellcrank/servo saver?
    Well this took less than 2 hours from disassembly of a running
    truck to outside for a test run. I've done it to both the king
    and super BF's with great results.
    [​IMG]


    I took the crossmembers from a "frog" and you'll find it with the chassis parts bag on the king and super models.
    (orig BF has red parts)
    [​IMG]


    I dissasembled my super, you actually only need to take off one side of the
    suspension and Frame screws to just lightly spread the front of your frame
    apart to swap out crossmembers.
    Then pop in the older style crossmebers and bolt it all back up.
    Servo centered in chassis just like bellcrank.

    [​IMG]


    I then took a kimbrough #121 servo saver drilled out the farthest most outboard holes to 3mm and put in some tamiya ballends. I placed the ballends down, under the kimbrough unit. Then hooked up my steering linkage and finished re-assembling.
    This keeps your steering servo centered and eliminates all that slop without hacking up your chassis. All this and out running in less than 2 hours, performance was much better, the truck went the direction I wanted regardless of the bumpy terrain unlike before.

    BTW
    the crossmember in question is included in a new kit, same parts bag as the chassis pieces.

    Another tip,
    I was playing with my super chassied Monster Beetle chasing some kids around picnic tables and caught a wheel on a table leg, oops. I pulled the screw through the H part where the wire brace bolts up.
    So I yanked a new H part off my frog and reinforced it. It should last forever now

    [​IMG]

    there have been a few questions about shocks and wheels lately.

    HPI SS Monster Wheels are the ones you want. They are 5 spoke. They come with adaptors to fit almost any truck.

    Shocks.
    I like the kyosho black shocks, plastic. They last longer and give less hassles than the duratrax gold.
    On an orig foot you will need 3 inch and put internal spacers to shorten the rear tokeep your dogbones from being abused.
    On a super or King I like the 3" and put rocket city #87 ball ends on. This is a better fit than 4" which tend to be just a bit long and cause excessive wear on the axle cups and dogbones.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 4, 2007
  3. Jul 8, 2006 #3

    william g

    william g

    william g

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    How to fix the driveline of n original Black Foot
    1, Get the parts from the re-issue frog, or buy a re-issue kit and sell on e-bay what you don't need.
    E-bay search results for axles and dogbones to convert from a re-issue frog driveline parts bag


    2, From Dirttrax1
    "You can use King Blackfoot diff yokes, wheels and axles with Wild Willy 2 dog bones to convert it to a dog bone drive instead of the hex drive.
    Thats how mine is set up."


    Tip for mounting lexan body on KBF

    Ok guys, if you have a KBF and try to mount a lexan body, you may have found that alot of them are way-off wheelbase wise. I have a Parma original blackfoot lexan replacement that is perfect wheelbase and looks like a real truck. The problem is, with the kit body mounts, the truck sits all jacked up in the front, which IMHO looks stupid.

    If you have a tamiya chevy S-10 or the F-150, there are two body mounts that come on the "N" parts tree that do not get used in their kits assembly. They have a square mounting base with a circle around it. Snip off the circle and leave the square. Grab a pair of slightly longer self tapping screws and they will bolt right up to the stock mounting post location.

    They are 2" long and have about 10 holes in them which will allow you to level out any lexan body you put on there. Best part is they look factory. Also, they will allow you to seemlesly change between lexan and your hard body if you wish.
    -eric173


    225dxFreak said: Fix for dogbones that pop out all the time.
    Cause usually is the trail arms end up extending to much. I ended up attaching a long zip-tie loosely to each dogbone, and then the ends of the zip-ties came up towards the rear body mounts and i taped them together with about 1-2inches of tape inbetween them so they were at an angle where they wouldn't get stuck between the dogbones and the trail arms. these two zip-ties have saved my dogbones many times, because if one pops out its practically tied on there so it wont get lost
    just my 2 cents



    William G, get the rear sway bar kit
    it really helps a LOT keeping the rear arms from spreading allowing the bones to pop out.
     

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