Bigfoot Wheelie King Update

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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
Small update to the Bigfoot. Got the wheels painted, and I got back plates finished along with the faux ZF planetaries. Also installed an RC4WD straight axle kit. It seems heavy duty, but it was pricey. Plus, I had to buy 4mm e-clips for it work. There are 2 snap ring grooves cut into each axle. One is cut just in front of the bearing that stays in the axle housing, and one is cut just behind the bearing that drops down inside the new straight hub piece. Without these snap rings, the axle is free to float and travel where ever it wants. Nothing was holding it in. Plus it came with no hardware to install it. I had to shorten the stock screws that held the c-hubs in place. I wasn't impressed for the money I spent. I think I'll just come up with my own links to lock out the next one. Anyway, here's a few pics.





 
william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
the rc4wd rear axle is the strongest setup, and spins the truest under load since it is supported by 2 more bearings than all the others. Worth the money IMHO, do it right or not at all thinking.
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
william g said:
the rc4wd rear axle is the strongest setup, and spins the truest under load since it is supported by 2 more bearings than all the others. Worth the money IMHO, do it right or not at all thinking.
Click to expand...
I would have been more satisfied with the purchase if they had included the necessary snap rings and hardware. Maybe it was a packaging mistake.
 
william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
no, but I have plenty of odds and ends from other models so the snap rings were no big deal, and just cut a thread or 2 off the stock screws for the end caps.

Should they be included, probably, but at least list it's needed so it's not a surprise.
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
I got the metal gear servo and 19T motor installed in this thing yesterday. I had charged the Lipo battery and tried it out. At first it seemed very powerful. It even had me second guessing if it was a 15T motor, because I have the exact same setup in my other son's Captain's Curse WK. This thing was pulling wheelies on command. Then I noticed the pass side rear wheel wasn't pulling. At first I thought it was the rim spinning inside the tire, becuase I haven't glued them yet. I checked it more closely, and I couldn't see the rim spinng inside the tire. So I thought I had blown the rear diff. I was very surprised, because I haven't had any problems with my other son's truck, and we've run several packs through it. I sat it down for a while, and was afraid I had broken one of the RC4WD axle shafts. It was bugging me, so I went back to check it. I had to use some Jun-Fac barrel nuts on this truck, because the custom wheels I used were thicker through the hub than the WK wheels. I had to shorten the barrels a little bit, and I discovered the one on the rear didn't have the threads cut quite deep enough into the barrel. It was letting the drive pin slip out of the hex, and the pin was spinning behind it. I slapped on another flat washer and it tightened up correctly. I thought I was back in business, but when I ran it, it sounded like it was stripping something in the rear diff. With the one side unloaded like it was for that test run, it may have blown the spiders. I ordered the RS4 Nitro gears (ring, pinion and spiders) last night for just under $20 shipped. I'll take the diff apart tonight to see exactly what it is, but I should have it covered.

On another note, I noticed when the radio links with the ESC, I only get 1 beep after it does its initial little chime. On my other son's truck, I get 2 little beeps after the little chime. Does anyone know if one of these mean Lipo or Ni-Cad? I thought these were set up for Lipo, but I'll have to get the manual out tonight and double check.
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
I hit a major snag on the body. I figured out I'm no graphics painter.:( I had to find a new body and I'm waiting on it to get painted. It's probably still a few weeks out. Hopefully after I get it back, I'll be ready to make some videos. I pulled the rear diff apart last night, and it looked ok. I couldn't see anything that would suggest it's slipping. So the clicking and grinding must be coming from the tranny. I went ahead and bit the bullet and bought a set of RC4WD steel tranny gears so I'd be prepared to fix it this coming weekend. Worst case, I replace the tranny gears. It could be the slipper is just letting go. These tires are a little wider than the Traxxas tires, and they are very "grippy" on concrete.

I'm currently working on my Outlaw and I just about have the ride height and suspension worked out. I've still got to tweak the rear 4-link mounting a little. I want to make the mounting point more level with the top of the diff. That way I get full compression before it hits the chassis under the battery tray. I'll post a thread on it soon after I work a few more things out. Still working on decal graphics for it and the Bigfoot. It's very time consuming.
 
Paul4x4

Paul4x4

Well-Known Member
Manfjourde said:
What did you use/do to get the shaved effect between the cleats?
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This is how I did it. I put three cutting discs on the dremel, and the middle one was slightly more worn than the other two.:)
[video=youtube;ICHoSQH1YoI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICHoSQH1YoI[/video]
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
Yeah, those guys are correct. It was done with a Dremel. I used a single disc, but multiple discs may give a more uniform pattern.
 
DiggerXX

DiggerXX

Well-Known Member
That's pretty awesome. I'll have to find the guts to do it on my Clod tires. About how long per tire did it take you?


Sent from my Vortec Powered iPhone
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
Cutting the tread bars thinner took a while. Probably about an hour per tire. It's very messy and dirty. Black tire dust & rubber go everywhere. Cutting the little grooves between the tread bars only takes 10-15 minutes per tire.
 
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