BEC needed?

Manfjourde

Manfjourde

Contributor
Well I was out driving my rtr scx10 today and while on the trails the truck motor would lose power. It seemed that it was only when the servo was cranked. Electronics are all stock. This is the first time I had this issue. only difference today was a new battery from what I normally run, although it has the same amperage, voltage, discharge, etc. just a different brand. I didn't have the other battery to test it. You guys think I need a bec? I've never owned one nor had issues that seemed I would.
 
C

CD13

Guest
Yes, The bec will help. Wire it to your reciever and pull the red wire out of the plug on your esc.
The bec will have the amps the servo needs and your esc will only have to power your motor.
 
Budhatrain

Budhatrain

Moderator
Moderator
I couldn't imagine you needing that with a stock setup. I would wait until I had another battery to compare.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
grab a castle 10A for $17.99 shipped or so off ebay it should fix that and also once you use it and crank it to a 6v constant you'll never go without one on any power rc.

they help the whole power system even the reciever power remains a constant 6v instead of a sporadic 5v twitch upon turning or goosing etc.

I got one for the WK and the clod I have the dual CPE 220-OZ and they worked fine but seemed a tad lazy when turning so I added the bec and upped it to a constant 6V and I could see and feel the difference off the get and would never run without one now.

for the cost alone and what you get in the long run there well worth it in the end.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
that's kinda cool.

it's just a capacitor that builds up a current and holds it kinda like a little battery in a way.

for the extra $12.00 though I would still go with a bec becuase you can up the voltage to the reciever and servo's wich means greater distance receiving and also more OZ's in torque to each servo.

so what this would do is give a constant power source to the reciever it does nothing for the servo's other then feed them the stock power coming from the reciever to the servo's.

if you have a reciever that can take up to 7.2V then you can run the servo's and reciver at a constant 7.2v draw and you will really see the different from 5v to 7.2v

alot of recievers out there are 7.2v max but some are not like my tactic ttx404 reciever has a 6v limit and why I stopped there with mine but I may get rid of it just so I can go 7.2v and then the tire's will turn that much faster again.
 
Manfjourde

Manfjourde

Contributor
Thanks guys I ended up going with the Castle BEC. Just need to solder it and try it out. That spektrum protector is totally cool, may have to try one.
 
Manfjourde

Manfjourde

Contributor
So I have a quick question. I am going to use my FlySky tx/rx on my scx10. I am going to install the BEC and use the axial lights as well. On the receiver I have vcc/ch3/ch2/ch1 slots. What do you recommend I do to hook up the BEC and lights? Can I put the BEC into ch3 and the lights into the VCC? Should I get a y harness and plug the bec and esc into channel 2? Help me out, I'm stuck!
 
william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
sokey70 said:
So I have a quick question. I am going to use my FlySky tx/rx on my scx10. I am going to install the BEC and use the axial lights as well. On the receiver I have vcc/ch3/ch2/ch1 slots. What do you recommend I do to hook up the BEC and lights? Can I put the BEC into ch3 and the lights into the VCC? Should I get a y harness and plug the bec and esc into channel 2? Help me out, I'm stuck!
Click to expand...
what is the vcc slot? Is that for binding?

I guess since I don't know what the vcc is I'd go Y harness and bec/lights to ch3
You really don't ever want to Y harness an ESC unless you have to.

You could also splice the lights and BEC together, solder it up and not use a Y harness.
 
william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
oh yes, that'll work.
a soldered splice would be better, but a Y is fine.

One thing, don't buy a real cheap Y harness. Did that and they fail in time. Spend the extra 5 or whatever bucks for the good ones and they last longer. Lots of bouncing and banging around on the wires, cheap ones can't handle that and fail.
 
Manfjourde

Manfjourde

Contributor
I'll get a nice one. So I've been searching online and found that the VCC is a power port. On this page it shows that. On the axial rx that it is replacing the lights were plugged into the battery port - are they the same thing?
 
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