Another gear question

[Manfjourde]

First off, sorry for another gear quesiton but I couldn't find excatly what I was looking for.

Can anyone tell me if the gear on the shaft that has the pin (the one on the right in the back of this image) is a machined part of the shaft?

I want to do this Blitz slipper mod but would need that gear from that shaft and if it is machined/part of the shaft it won't work.

I don't want to drop $50 on gears if I can't use that one and won't use the spur. I'd rather go with aluminum for now so I can do teh slipper mod. Please help!

Also, I asked this on another thread but it wasn't clarified, which is the correct ring/pinion? What's the difference on these 3?
$13.69 HPI Racing Bevel Gear 38T/13T E-Savage

$9.99 HPI Racing Bevel Gear Set 38/13T Sintered Metal

$33.99 HPI Racing Heavy-Duty Final Gear Set P1x38T/P1x13T

 

[JKRacing37]

Forget the slipper mod. If you can get the steel gears, get them. Run an Associated 32pitch spur, steel trans gears, revo shafts, and the e-savage ring and pinion (shimmed correctly) and viola - damn near bulletproof drivetrain.


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[Manfjourde]

Thanks JK, do you know the difference between the E-savage and the sintered metal? What shims too might I ask?

 

[JKRacing37]

Check out this thread for a lot of good info and links:

http://www.rcmt.net/forums/showthread.php?19377-Need-Some-Ideas

 

[northerngames]

yes the pin comes out.

link #2 only it's the only direct fit best metal and the cheapest.

e saveage does not have the recess on the gearing side and takes shimming and finnesse and still not 100% right.

the hd final gear set comes with a cup that has to be used and a shaft end that is rounded and not keyed so you cannot add trtaxxas shaft or any other driveshafts to them becuase that cup needs to be used the shaft end is about half the diameter of stock so that dont match and also it is very short and the set pin that you screw in does not match up with anything either.

if you go with them it is what you see only and nothing else to be added so your stuck using the stock shafts only becuase of the set pin location.

so stay far from them plus there the most expensive.

so in the end the cheapest are not only the cheapest there the best of the 3 there the only direct fit all around and also built the best of them with the correct recess and fins on the rear to keep the teeth a little cooler IMHO.

add the nitro rs4 spiders too to match the same metal quality.

pretty sure I been through every gear and pinion combo's that will work and not work in these things in both the axles and trans haha.

add a exo hot racing diff cup or gcm and thats about as tuff as they come.