ZRP_Racing
I am ZRP
I've used the mixing feature on my Spektrum transmitter to "dial down" the rear steering throw. Another way is to relocate the drag link closer to the center of the servo horn. PRP also sells a rear steer plate that does this.
http://www.teamprpracing.com/clodphotos_sl1000.html
Hope this helps some.
http://www.teamprpracing.com/clodphotos_sl1000.html
Hope this helps some.
DEVASTATOR
Defiance Racing
4WS is tough. If you run a fast track with turns where you can carry speed, 4WS hurts more than it helps.....even with good setups. But, if you really want it, the best thing to do is mount the steering link as close to the center of the of the output gear on the servo as possible. Most don't even use a servo saver. When I tried it, I used a servo saver but I made an adapter that I put on the servo saver that allowed me to mount the steering link close to center on the output gear. It really comes down to adjusting it. I made mine to be adjustable and that helped fine tune it.
ZRP_Racing
I am ZRP
When you buy your Terminator kit, buy another BTA steering kit. This will give you the servo mount and short links. Use the the long link from the rear steer lockout. The rear servo does not need to have as much torque as the front, but should be close to the same speed.
Not really, you'd have this effect where the tail end'll kick out once you turn the fronts granted the effect may be small considering we're talkin micro seconds. It's relative rates of steering, then figure trying to recorrect your steering...you'd have the same effect your front would correct quickly but then the rears would be lagging so, like many have said on here you would just have to use a smaller servo arm/horn to limit the steering throw in the rear. So that way when going full lock to lock the servos are working at the same speed but different displacements.
You may not need as high torque a servo for the rear steering, but ideally you'd want one that has a lot of holding power to keep the wheels centered when not in use.
You can shorten the throw of the rear servo either through your radio EPA settings or by relocating the link mount closer to the center of the servo horn. Pretty sure that PRP offers a CF piece that also relocates the link mounting point, but I usually just drill a new hole closer to the center of the servo.
Here's a photo from Tad's Ground Pounder thread that shows an example of this redrilled hole:
You can shorten the throw of the rear servo either through your radio EPA settings or by relocating the link mount closer to the center of the servo horn. Pretty sure that PRP offers a CF piece that also relocates the link mounting point, but I usually just drill a new hole closer to the center of the servo.
Here's a photo from Tad's Ground Pounder thread that shows an example of this redrilled hole:
bpare207 when you put it like that it makes perfect sense... i run equal lenght arms in my Force and adjust EPA according to the grip i get from the ground, problem is that high CoG 11 lbs truck is quite flippy when tires grip so any help from 4WS is lost when i need to drop speed while cornering on grippy surface.
I think radios like Futaba 3PM MX 2.4GHz with 4WS mixing allows user to use different endpoint adjustments in front and rear
Can you Clock clod axles to drop motors closer to the ground to drop CoG and make it more stable in corners with or without 4WS ?
I think radios like Futaba 3PM MX 2.4GHz with 4WS mixing allows user to use different endpoint adjustments in front and rear
Can you Clock clod axles to drop motors closer to the ground to drop CoG and make it more stable in corners with or without 4WS ?
CPH extreme
Well-Known Member
most w/ rear steering are using a 3 channel radio so it they have a seperate channel for each servo
Ball Racing
Well-Known Member
Before you stay Unimpressed with 2WS,
Back sure you have you steering knuckles trimmed, and the axles tubes trimmed to allow full turn.
Also if you run TTR CVD's you can get more travel that the stock axles allow..
Back sure you have you steering knuckles trimmed, and the axles tubes trimmed to allow full turn.
Also if you run TTR CVD's you can get more travel that the stock axles allow..
CPH extreme
Well-Known Member
I am speaking as a rookie here, but i too had to have to 4ws got it all hooked up.. ran the snot out of it. i can say my truck went like a rocket until i got to the corner, hit the rear steer, and over went the truck. w/4 ws i had to scrub off too much speed in the corners to control it w/ 4ws. i went back to front steer only and now can carry much more speed through the corners
With the knuckles turned backwards on the front and the steering linkage behind the axle steering improves greatly on 2ws. I have 4ws on one truck with a three channel radio and have it turned down so much you can't tell it even turns much. It helps on a very tight track but anything else 2ws is just fine.
CPH extreme
Well-Known Member
On the 3 trucks my brother and I have built (Tube chassis realistic monster trucks), I run a 3 channel with 2 momentary switches controlling the rear steering. It is self centering, so I can obviously run the rear steer independently from the front. I think it is great having the rear steer on our trucks, because just like the real monsters in racing, we can just use rear steer and corner extremely well. I find myself using the rear steer alone almost more than the front sometimes...
Mo'
400 Lux
Another thing to take into account with 4WS is the wheelbase of the truck. Typically people who run 4WS run it to counter the effects of running a long wheelbase which gives the truck a much more planted feel overall especially while jumping. Running 4WS with a long wheelbase gives you the best of both worlds with the stability and tight turning radius both setups offer. If your truck has a relatively short wheelbase already then even limited RWS may still be too far out of control.