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  1. #1

    Default Tweaked Racing secret tips _ & _ Newbie clod build

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    Originally posted by Tim Powers of Tweaked Racing.

    This is something that I came up with when we started racing at Y City Hobby & Speedway in Zanesville Ohio back in 1992. The track was very unforgiving on axle tubes when you would tag the wall off of some of the big jumps we had then. So to help in the time that it takes to change an axle tube, we needed something that would make it faster,so we would not hold up our racing. While I had my truck apart fixing it one time,,It dawned on me what to do,,, So here ya go

    All you need is a tap, tap handle, and 16- 6/32 x 3/8 socket head cap screws.
    Take your gear cases apart and take out all the bolts that hold the axle tubes to the gearcases, Then just tap your gearcases and you can either tap the axle tubes or drill them so that the 6/32 cap screw can slide through and then thread into the case. I just tap both,and its like its double nutted,and never works loose. Being that they are only 3/8 of an inch long,they fit right flush with the inside of the gearcase and don't hit the gears. So the next time you break an axle tube,,all you have to do is take the tire off,,steering knukle off,, and use an allen wrench,,the one that will let you go in at an angle,,and just take out the 4- 6/32 cap screws, and take the screw out of the axle brace that goes into the gearcase, and the axle tube will just pull right out. The one gear might move when you pull out the axle,,but it will go back together when you push the brass splined nut back in. This should only take about 10 minutes to change the broken tube,,and never have to take your gearcases apart again,,unless you break some gears.

    I wanted to let everyone know this from me because of past experiences with some of the stuff that I have made. Myself and all of the TWEAKED RACING TEAM use this and its very easy,and saves alot of time.

    I get the socket head cap screws at Fastenal Products and you can get 100 for like less than $5. Or just check your local hardware store.

    If you have any questions on this,Please e mail me at and I will try and help you out.

    Tad will put up a picture of this soon


    Originally posted by TAD
    Here is the pic first one shows taping the gearcase then the axle tube then the screw holding them together. If you want any more pics let me know. I have been runing mine this way for a while now and have had no problems with them coming loose or anything.


  2. Default Newbie clodbuster build up

    Here is a good read of what 2 brothers and some hand tools did to fix up a stock clod

    now on to the regular thread...

    Hello Everyone, I recently purchased a used clodbuster off of a friend at work. I had alway wanted one but just never had the opportunity present itself. I picked the truck up fairly cheap and it was in perfect condition. I do not think it was ever run really hard. Needless to say the factory truck was just screeming for hop ups. I dont have alot of expendable income so I have chosen to build my own aluminum chassis. and 4-link I am baseing it off of the clodzilla 3. I just started it this past week and I have to say it is looking better then I thought it would. I do have a couple of questions though. I have an old novak C2 not being used. I tried to find some specs on it and all I found is that it will handle 4-7 cells and there is no motor limit. Can I use this in my clod. I have not read of anyone else using it in any of the forums. Mainly I here about the super rooster. I am currently just running the stock can motors but I may upgrade in the future. Also I am having a hard time deciding on wheelbase. I am leaning towards 12". the truck will not be raced at all and is going to be a back yard bruiser. I would like it to have a tall stance to make it more monster truck like then race truck.

    any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I am sure I will have more questions as the build progresses.

    Quote Originally Posted by kzxctf View Post
    I have an old novak C2 not being used. I tried to find some specs on it and all I found is that it will handle 4-7 cells and there is no motor limit.
    A Cyclone C2

    cyclones are nice im tryin to get one cheap. as long as u dont run over 7 cells in ure truck and stay above dual 12t motors you should be fine. but with stock motors and under 8 cells it would work fine but wont have reverse.

    I dont mind not having reverse so it should be fine. I dont remember the last rc vehicle I owned with reverse. I was planning on making my own 4-link out of aluminium arrows with inserts on both sides. I believe it will accept an #8-32 threaded rod.. does anyone know if there are rod ends that will accept this size? or will I have to find something close and drill them out to fit..
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  3. Default

    sure ... theres rod ends that accept 8-32 hardware ... that's what my carbon fiber tube 4-links use :tmb

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rampagin Clod View Post
    sure ... theres rod ends that accept 8-32 hardware ... that's what my carbon fiber tube 4-links use :tmb

    Funny I was going to say if your going to use arrow tubers might as well shot the moon and go carbon fiber but then remembered the income thing. Looking good with the start of the build as far as wheelbase goes being that it's more basher than racer I would base the wheelbase around the body I decide to go with. Just a thought though. Keep us posted on yourf progress and welcome to the board.
    "Lead me, follow me, or get out of MY WAY"

  5. Default

    here are some new pics of the chassis. I am trying to decide if an angle support should be put in. I think it would go from where the shocks mount down to the bottom of the chassis. I am not sure if I should put them in or not because the chassis is pretty strong as it sits. any thoughts???
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  6. Default

    I would suggest going with an angle support. It doesn't have to go all the way out to where the shocks mount but maybe to where the last cross support is. Doing great on the build up.
    "Lead me, follow me, or get out of MY WAY"

  7. Default

    I am most probably going to end up stealing that chassis idea, it's so much better than my homebuilt....Brilliant work in the limited tools department :shk
    -val ("Yeah, I'm the guy you saw trying to hammer in screws with a pipe wrench, why do you ask?")

  8. Default

    Thank you for the compliments. And I have to say this chassis is not completely my idea. I have to thank all the members of this forum for posting so many pictures of their buildups and of their trucks. Without this forum I would have been completely lost. So far the build has been pretty easy. The hardest part has been to remember to measure twice and cut and drill once. The only tools i have had to use so far is my cordless drill, screwdriver, and my dremel. I will try and keep the post up to date kind of like a small record of the build. thanks again to everyone on rcmt

    Quote Originally Posted by chvman View Post
    I would suggest going with an angle support. It doesn't have to go all the way out to where the shocks mount but maybe to where the last cross support is. Doing great on the build up.
    I have to agree with you on the angle support. I was sitting at work today thinking about it. The first time the front tires get pushed back at all, those verticle supports could buckle being there is no side to side support. I will be working on the supports this weekend.

    I had some time today, since winter decided to show up again in April, and put some angle braces in the chassis. I am ready to start with the four link but I am not 100% sure on how I want to mount the four link to the axles. Any advice or pictures on how to would be greatly appreciated.

    How did you attach those angles to the chassis? With an end adjuster? I'm also working with limited tools (Basically just a dremel) and anything that isn't 90 degrees (or thereabouts, I really need a drill press adapter!) is pretty much out of the question for me. Like I said earlier, I want to steal your design!

    Alright man now that looks great those angle supports are going to make a huge difference in durability. Now lets work on the links. Judgeing by you lower chassis I would mount both the top links and bottom links to the axle and then triangulate the top set of links at the lower chassis brace. Like ESP does. I'll try to find some pics to help you out. Ok got pics to help explain now. The pics show how to mount them to the chassis and as far as mounting them to the knuckles well pick up a set of these.

    Quote Originally Posted by LAV25 View Post
    How did you attach those angles to the chassis? With an end adjuster? I'm also working with limited tools (Basically just a dremel) and anything that isn't 90 degrees (or thereabouts, I really need a drill press adapter!) is pretty much out of the question for me. Like I said earlier, I want to steal your design!
    The angle supports are simply bolted to the chassis. Each brace has a rod end attached on each end.

    CHVMAN, Thank you for the pics and the link for the braces. I am going to have to order a couple sets of them.

    ahhh esp's chassis brace is cheap, and a great idea
    see the shock lift kit brackets too. That's comming along real nice.

    You hit the nail on the head. They came with the truck and they worked out great with the build so far.

    Glad to hear the pics helped sometimes it's tough to describe what you mean so I try to get some pics to help. Which brought me to a question have you given any thought to how you're going mount your shocks?

    I was thinking of making a bracket and mounting them to the axle supports, but I also want to put a servo on each axel for four wheel steering. So I am not exactly sure what the best solution is yet..
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  9. Default

    Ok here go because of your upper shock mounts and where you mounting your links your kinda limited on how to mount the shocks so here is an option for the shocks and an option for the servo's first the servos. Here is a pic for plates that mount to the gear case you need to make the posts that the servo mounts to also and these require a small amount of grinding on the gear case here's the pics. As far as mounting shocks I think your stuck mounting them ontop of your axle stays like this.
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    Last edited by chvman; 04-06-2007 at 11:39 PM. Reason: pics added
    "Lead me, follow me, or get out of MY WAY"

  10. #10


    I'm personally thinking about trying integy shocks as right now I have hot bodies and while I like them, they leak.

    you might look at either mounting the shocks lower on the axles or useing shorter shocks as that thing sure is riding high!

  11. Default

    thank you for the help. I dont know how much i will get done this weekend with the easter holiday but I will post some new pics when I get something accomplished.

    Well while i was waiting for my wife to get ready this morning i had time fabricate these shock mounts. Not sure how strong they will be once I start driving the truck around but I will find out... If they end up being to weak I will have to order some.

    Just wanted to post some updated pics. with the four link on. Still have to fabricate the servo mounts.

    Does anyone have any opion on what a good shock choice might be for this build?

    Man now that is really coming along nice. As for shocks my thoughts are it all depends on how much you want to pay. I'm running Traxxas Big bore shocks on my truck they serve there purpose and won't break the bank but thats just me.

    I've seen a lot of Clods with Traxxas T/E Maxx 4" oil filled shocks, they pretty much fit the same as the stock dampers but have more and smoother movement. I got a set of 8 on eBay for about 13 bucks before shipping (got a little lucky), usually they run about 20, they could be a pretty good choice for you. If you eBay search for "Maxx shocks" you'll get a huge listing, keep an eye out for new, and set of eight for the best bets. I don't know if we can endorse people here, but if you want, feel free to PM me and I'll give you the ID of the eBay seller I bought from, he gave me a good deal on international shipping so I'm kind of partial to him.

    Thats the look I was going for High :shk... It is mainly going to be run in the back yard so i am not to concerned about handling. If the CG ends up being to high I will probably mount the shocks higher up on the chassis.

    Well I was able to work on the clod this weekend. I got the steering for the front and the back finished. The only thing left to do is mount the electronics and the body and It should be ready for its maiden run.

    I am trying to think of a name for the truck any idea's

    Looking good there gald to see it's all come together. One small thing though is it appears that your servo is sitting really far foward and kinda low (could just be me) thats not going to cause you any clearance issues with your steering right? As far as a name well are you going to do another body or stick with the one you have? Funny thing about naming a truck is my clod has been done for a couple of years now with no name however I have a name for a new truck I would like to build with a new chassis design. Either way I think the name comes with the paint juob or vis-versa.


    I think the angle the picture is taken makes things look a little closer then they really are. Nothing binds up or rubs so I think it should be ok. As for the body.. I am going to keep the stock clod body. In fact I have another one untouched and never painted. It is missing the roll bar and the engine though. I am planning on repainting the one in the pics.. I am thinking of silver with some kind of graphics the same color orange as the tubers. I would like a flame job but I dont know if my paint skills would do it justice.

    I am glad to see that people are enjoying this thread. I hope it helps others as much as it has helped me. :rock and thank you for the compliments.

    Nice looking truck bro. I like the red on the links and chassis braces. Very cool looking!

    Thanks kjr2. Your thread on your clod build up is what motivated me to get a clod! I loved the way yours looked with the clodzilla chassis. Since my funds are kind of tight at the moment I had to fabricate mine but I can say i used yours as a template.:tmb
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  12. Default tapped holes

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    bought the tap.....put on drill....super easy....forward in and then make sure you switch to reverse to back out.........super easy and hard to screw up:rock

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