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  1. Default clod and gmade axle comparison.


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    I'm creating this post to inform those who's ever been looking at axle options for their custom rig. Specifically clod axles vs gmade axles.
    There isn't a lot of information regarding the gmade axles. Googling for information on the gmade spider axles were still sparse, it lead to forums about the R1 but barely anything about the spider axles. I hope this post will answer questions about the axles and compare the difference between the two. If someone wants to correct me or contribute to this, it would be appreciated.

    Parts difference:

    axle stub:


    the top is a gmade, the lower is a clod.
    The Gmade is much thicker, uses an M5 lock nut and uses a keyed shaft to mount wheels on. The clod uses a splined shaft and M4 locknuts. Both stubs are made of steel.

    Dog bones:

    The gmade shaft is 8mm and also uses a keyed shaft to enter the differentials. The clod's shaft is 6mm(?) thick, uses keyed splined that adapts onto a brass hex then mates with the differential. Both are made from steel.

    Differentials:

    The Gmade differential are on the left, stock clod diffs are on the right. Both differentials uses three spider gears. The Gmade ones have the ability to simulate a limited locked differential by placing a heavy weight of grease inside the differential and sealing it by means of six screws and o-rings. No idea what either gears/ diffs are made of, input would be great.

    Wheel hub:


    The two on the left are the included 14mm and 12mm plastic wheel hub for the Gmade axle. On the right, is the stock clod brass hex.

    Thats should cover most of the major internal parts. If there is anythng specific anyone wants to see, let me know!

    Now for the outside dimensions.

    Complete axles:





    Upper is a stock Gmade axle, the lower is a slightly modified clod axle. The gmade axle is obviously wider. Clod axles are 11 inches wide, while the Gmade axles are 12.5 inches in width. The clod consists of four peices, the gear box halves and both axle C-hubs made from some sort of plastic (help on material please!) The Gmade axle is a two peice gear box, upper and lower both of which are made from lexan (same stuff that bullet proof windows are made from).

    Gmade Gear ratio with 13 tooth pinion: 27.245:1
    Stock clodbuster gear ratio with 13 tooth pinion: 30.08

    added 01/17/2011

    Mounting the axles onto a chassis.

    Lets imagine you already have a chassis ready to use. That means links, rod ends and balls, and the chassis.

    For the owner of a clod buster, more than likely you will be upgrading to a 4 link system of some sorts. Which means it will require you to get an upper link mount, a lower link mount, and a servo mount. If your a clod racer, you will obviously need an adjustable motor mount, and maybe a locked diff or an adjustable one. And you'll also have to buy 2 of each (unless they offer four as a set).

    For the Gmade axle owner all the mounting points are there, the servo mount is built in, so as is the adjustable motor mount. The only problem is the mounting mounts for links have their holes bored for 4mm screws. What does that mean? You won't be able to use the standard 6.8mm ball ends that come standard in most kits. You'll have to make an adaptor piece for the uppers, and bore new holes for the lower. Or you can purchase their 10mm ball end kit, which is what i did. I've also replaced every rod end on my rig with their version of the 6.8mm as well. Below you'll see what a difference their 10mm ball end is compared to an hpi 6.8mm rod end.




    Other close up pictures of the Gmade:




    added 2/15/11

    Gmade Gear ratio with 13 tooth pinion: 27.245:1
    Stock clodbuster gear ratio with 13 tooth pinion: 30.08


    Clod or Gmade?

    The general consensus is that the Clod axle is superior to the gmade. In my opinion from a first look, the gmade one will save you money in the long run. Though the clod has a vast amount of parts availability and upgrade options, the Gmade axles were built with what the clod had lacked in a custom axle.

    For example: upon starting a custom Clod rig, one of the first few things to upgrade would be bearings, a four link system, servo mount, shock mount, wheel wideners.
    The Gmade axles come with all this, except the wheel wideners, but the axles are wider so no need really.

    The clod buster axles, a proven design that has lasted more than two decades. You can even build a set of clod axles with out any stock parts left, albeit maybe the screws may be used. With a vast source of parts and optional parts in the market, gives this choice the upper hand when it comes time to replace parts.

    The Gmade axles at a first glance look like a TXT and clodbuster axle hybrid, and for the most part, it is. They took what was popular about both axle, incorporated what users wanted in an axle and beefed up all the necessary area. In theory, this should call for less time in the pits. But does give you a very limited choice in upgrades. The other downfall, which I have yet to experience, is the failure of the gears. Something about them being soft?

    In conclusion, Tamiya had came up with a successful gearbox twenty years ago with the clod. Twenty years later, a small company named Gmade came along and introduced what can be called an updated clod buster axle. The clod axles in their own rights have created a niche and cult following. The Gmade axles are like the evolution of the clod axle for the 21st century.

    if you guys got questions, feel free to ask. These axles will be replacing my current rig's set up. I will be testing them with a pair of old school novak 5800SS brushless system. Look out for my build!

    This is my way of contributing back to the community that had helped me in the early day's when I first started my clod project nine years ago.
    Last edited by rx78gp02; 02-15-2011 at 05:29 PM. Reason: more info added

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    Quote Originally Posted by blurr95 View Post
    This is a good idea. I have been wanting a set of these axles for a long time. I was looking at them again today on junfac site. Any info yet on how the gears hold up. Wasn't there a problem with some of the older gear sets being soft or something.

    Jason
    Quote Originally Posted by rx78gp02 View Post
    i was wondering the same thing blur, no idea how the gears will handle, but from what i hear (1post), there were gear problems. But i'll find out with a pair of old school novak brushless.

    No problem Will. If there's a specific part or area that you want me to take pictures or examine, just let me know and i'll get on it.

    The next portion of parts will be coming in a few hours.
    Quote Originally Posted by clodbuster1 View Post
    i thought these axles wore 1/8th scale because of the dragoon monster truck kit they come with which is 1/8th scale , i would not buy these because the clod axles have 100% more upgrade parts that can out perform the spider axles ,james
    Quote Originally Posted by william g View Post
    Do they make a metal hex hub in 12 or 14mm for the axles instead of the plastic ?
    William G:
    no they dont. But yes they do make an aluminum wheel widener kit in 14mm, which includes barrel nuts (:ack)

    metalicagod:
    I don't recall exactly. But I remember seeing a chart that left it pretty close what the clod buster's is. I've already emailed them to find out.

    clodbuster1:
    Yes, these come in their 1/8th scale kits, but who says you can't adapt the axles to 1/10th scale?
    I can't agree with you more on that clods are 100% more upgradable. But thats the bottomless pit where your wallet will get emptied into.
    The Gmade axles were designed in a way so that you won't have to upgrade. They already have built in motor mounts, bearings all the way through, polycarbonate/lexan case thats tough as nails.
    The reason I sought after the spider axle was price. a complete Gmade axle ready to mount onto a chassis is about $110?. A used clod roller is worth about $100 on ebay (correct me if i'm wrong). Then you have the option of buying upgrades for it (likely), or making them yourself (unlikely). You can figure out which one will cost more in the long run.

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    Quote Originally Posted by william g View Post
    I like that, a metal part keyed to the axle is better than plastic IMHO
    William G:
    I agree that the metal is better than the plastic wheel adaptor, but its the barrel nut that i don't like. The plastic wheel adaptor is made from the same composite material as the bumper's were.


    on another note, here they are mounted:







    I'll be taking money on to which parts breaks first on the axles. :tong

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    Consider this thread a sticky Thank you for doing it :tmb I really appreciate it.

    Can you find a way to lower it some?
    Shorter shocks, shock towers, maybe lay the shock down to a mount point towards the chassis center?

    I'm not saying drop it to a carpet racer stance, but it's pretty high and right now it'll have wheelbase and camber changes when the suspension gets compressed.



    wiring a clod esc picture
    __My webpage _________________________ My Email

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    I'm currently at the inlaw's house, soo some work later tonight.
    I just finished the electronics and battery tray. I thought the links were too long. i'll be shortening them to match the TXT1's link length. I'll also try to match the TXT's stance and wheelbase.

  6. #6

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    thanks for the pics, they look pretty decent. as for the first part breaking my moneys on one of the plastic hexes stripping.

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    0300 hours

    finally finished truck.



    electronics yet to be installed.
    going to sleep in the dog house.
    see ya'll in the morning... afternoon..

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    nice
    looks better, only thing needed is to put the brace between the shock towers. It looks much better dropped down a bit. Lexan trays look cool, good job :tmb
    __My webpage _________________________ My Email

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    Will G
    I like the wheel base much better. I had measured it originally, and it almos matches the dimension as the Gmade spider. Now it measures just about a widened TXT1.
    The lexan trays are a recycled idea I had. Kinda looks likes the electronics are floating in the pic below.


    anyways, had to call for back up on getting this rig running
    Had a little test run to check electronics. If there is one downfall so far about the axles, it has the same steering a clod would have if it was 2ws. Hopefully cutting the nubs on the knuckles off will fix this problem.

  10. #10

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    May I ask for a measurement? I would like to know the distance between the motor mount and the link mount i.e. how long of a motor can you fit in there without interfering with the lower links and shocks.
    Thanks in advance for any help:tmb!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MadForce View Post
    May I ask for a measurement? I would like to know the distance between the motor mount and the link mount i.e. how long of a motor can you fit in there without interfering with the lower links and shocks.
    Thanks in advance for any help:tmb!!

    ask and you will receive.



    the pictures above shows the novak 5800 SS brushless motor.
    Measurements:
    endbell to closest portion of the lower link: 20mm
    from top of can to upper link: 15mm
    from lower can to lower link: 10mm

    update:

    First part to break:

    Just like the TXT-1, the upper link mounts seem to be a weakpoint. Even though it uses 4mm screws and M4 locknuts to secure it. However, it probably was user error for the premature breakage. I had used loctite on the screw and it shown stress fractures after a mass amount of torque to undo the upper link. Another set of case has been ordered. Building re-inforcement peice for upper links. This is after five runs in rough jagged terrain.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by rx78gp02 View Post
    ask and you will receive.
    http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/DSC04736.jpg
    http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/DSC04737.jpg

    the pictures above shows the novak 5800 SS brushless motor.
    Measurements:
    endbell to closest portion of the lower link: 20mm
    from top of can to upper link: 15mm
    from lower can to lower link: 10mm

    update:

    First part to break:
    http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/DSC04742.jpg
    Just like the TXT-1, the upper link mounts seem to be a weakpoint. Even though it uses 4mm screws and M4 locknuts to secure it. However, it probably was user error for the premature breakage. I had used loctite on the screw and it shown stress fractures after a mass amount of torque to undo the upper link. Another set of case has been ordered. Building re-inforcement peice for upper links. This is after five runs in rough jagged terrain.

    That is a pity:-(. Thanks for taking the time to answer!
    I thought this might ne a weak point for the upper link mounts, but probably a simple plate might strengthen this part.
    From what I can see you can easily stuff a 74mm long can in there. I have a couple 2800kv motors waiting for a project:wnk.
    Thanks again for the pictures and reply:tmb!

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    updates coming up in a few hours.
    Here is my solution for the tower brace:



    its a 6.5mm thick peice of aluminum.
    more of the update will come up soon.

  14. #14

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    Hey guys I had Gmade before too. I don't have it anymore so I can't answer a lot of questions but I did take a lot of comparison pics. Here they are:









  15. #15

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    And here were some build up pics:






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    Looks more like Delrin than lexan

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