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  1. #141

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grave Digger1 View Post
    Thanks.
    How long a time do you think there is on a 5000 NIMH battery with a Velineon brushless?

    Lynn
    To hard to tell because there are so many factors to consider. How you gear it, how you drive it, quality of the NiMH cells, and how you care for them all will affect runtime. I would guess around 30 minutes. I will say this, NiMH cells, especially high capacity ones like the 5000mahs, don't hold their capacity for very long. Most Lipos on the other hand pretty much hold up their capacity or more.
    http://www.rcmt.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1239&dateline=1394674  032

  2. #142

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    Hawn,

    Did you ever clear up your radio issues ? I'm having some of my own, and am considering a new radio, but am not sure which one to get...

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    I love the Cartoon Network body.
    Is that the Wheely King body?
    Where can you get the decals? I've looked around a little bit, but I had not too much luck in finding them.

    Thanks,
    Lynn

  4. #144

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian34 View Post
    Hawn,

    Did you ever clear up your radio issues ? I'm having some of my own, and am considering a new radio, but am not sure which one to get...
    Sorry Brian I didn't see this....I changed the receiver in my Traxxas 2.4 system and now it works perfectly. Only thing about it is it doesn't have endpoint adjustments onlty travel adjustments and that's only on Channel 1(front steering) none on the other channels for rear steer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Grave Digger1 View Post
    I love the Cartoon Network body.
    Is that the Wheely King body?
    Where can you get the decals? I've looked around a little bit, but I had not too much luck in finding them.

    Thanks,
    Lynn
    Funny you should ask because I'm using that body on my Clod O Pounder for our races tomorrow. I got those stickers in a sticker lot I bought on eBay a couple of years ago. They aren't made anymore but they were made by Slixx Decals and these are the 1/8th scale Nascar series. I mainly got them for the sponsor decals so the cartoon stuff wasn't important to me. Other guys have asked about them and found the 1/10th scale sheets on eBay but not these 1/8th scale ones so I'm not sure where exactly to find them.

    EDIT: Oh yeah the body is a Proline Ford Excursion body for T/Emax, Savage. etc. I changed the headlights to the round ones that came with the Nascar decals.

    Last edited by HawnMT; 06-05-2010 at 05:20 PM.
    http://www.rcmt.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1239&dateline=1394674  032

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    Cool, thanks!
    Does the Wheely King fit the GP's?

    Lynn

  6. #146

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    It will not, at least without a ton of hacking. Ground Pounders are considerably larger than WK's are.
    CPE Facebook Page!
    Brett Crawford - Owner

  7. #147

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    I figured it was about time to do an update on this thread.

    I've made a few changes to the truck, most notably is the Turnigy(same as EZ-Run) 60a ESC/3300kv brushless system replacing the old Novak Havoc/SS5800 system. Powerwise it's not much of a change but the added adjustemnts on the new esc is very welcome.

    The other change is I swapped out the HPI MT2 shocks for a set of Hot Racing aluminum 120mm shocks. I liked the HPIs but I wanted more adjustments than just the spacer collars.

    I brought the truck back to our RCMTC-HI race series about a month ago so I could use it at the freestyle event at our Mid-Season Championship. Since a requirement for freestyle was using a truck that was being raced I had to run the truck in our Outlaw class. The low powered brushless was outclassed but she made a decent showing.



    One big reason I wanted to freestyle this truck was that I thought if I pushed it hard enough I culd break an axle or something. Funny thing was even though I didn't run it long(I flipped about 30 sec in) I did push it very hard and....nothing broke. I even beat the snot out if it on the course afterwards and it just kept going. In fact I now drive it just like my TXTs and Clods and she holds up. The epoxied axle housings have yet to even show any signs of failure.









    Something I've been meaning to mention for a while now is the rear driveshaft. I installed a GP hop up rear driveshaft awhile ago and that thing has been perfect. I was leary at first about it because it looks so much like the crappy Tamiya driveshafts but these are of much better quality. I can barely notice any warping of the yokes where the pins are.



    I now bring the truck to races to run in open class just in case someone shows up with a WheelyKing or something similar. If no one does I just bash it after the races are over. I was racing Blake's(teambgracing) Mod Class CPE Clod this past race and they were pretty eveny matched, even trading off wins.
    Last edited by HawnMT; 10-12-2010 at 06:49 AM.
    http://www.rcmt.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1239&dateline=1394674  032

  8. #148

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    Quote Originally Posted by HawnMT View Post
    I figured it was about time to do an update on this thread.

    I've made a few changes to the truck, most notably is the Turnigy(same as EZ-Run) 60a ESC/3300kv brushless system replacing the old Novak Havoc/SS5800 system. Powerwise it's not much of a change but the added adjustemnts on the new esc is very welcome.

    The other change is I swapped out the HPI MT2 shocks for a set of Hot Racing aluminum 120mm shocks. I liked the HPIs but I wanted more adjustments than just the spacer collars.

    I brought the truck back to our RCMTC-HI race series about a month ago so I could use it at the freestyle event at our Mid-Season Championship. Since a requirement for freestyle was using a truck that was being raced I had to run the truck in our Outlaw class. The low powered brushless was outclassed but she made a decent showing.



    One big reason I wanted to freestyle this truck was that I thought if I pushed it hard enough I culd break an axle or something. Funny thing was even though I didn't run it long(I flipped about 30 sec in) I did push it very hard and....nothing broke. I even beat the snot out if it on the course afterwards and it just kept going. In fact I now drive it just like my TXTs and Clods and she holds up. The epoxied axle housings have yet to even show any signs of failure.









    Something I've been meaning to mention for a while now is the rear driveshaft. I installed a GP hop up rear driveshaft awhile ago and that thing has been perfect. I was leary at first about it because it looks so much like the crappy Tamiya driveshafts but these are of much better quality. I can barely notice any warping of the yokes where the pins are.



    I now bring the truck to races to run in open class just in case someone shows up with a WheelyKing or something similar. If no one does I just bash it after the races are over. I was racing Blake's(teambgracing) Mod Class CPE Clod this past race and they were pretty eveny matched, even trading off wins.
    Kent,

    Thanks for the update, particularly the last picture, as I am continuing to try and get my truck sorted out.

    Take a look at that last picture though. Looks to me like your rear axle housing is bent.

    I know you said the housings were holding up ok, but that pic looks like a few more hits and they might give way...

  9. #149

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    Quote Originally Posted by HawnMT View Post
    I've made a few changes to the truck, most notably is the Turnigy(same as EZ-Run) 60a ESC/3300kv brushless system - The low powered brushless was outclassed but she made a decent showing.
    That's cuz you got the 380 sized rotor-motor. I watched a video of Jang from UltimateRC test that motor, a velineon, and a tacon motor and the ezrun put out HALF THE POWER!!! Looks like a 540 can but definitely not a 540 sized rotor. Try THIS maybe?

  10. #150

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian34 View Post
    Take a look at that last picture though. Looks to me like your rear axle housing is bent.

    I know you said the housings were holding up ok, but that pic looks like a few more hits and they might give way...
    Good eye Brian, it does look bent in the pic. I just put a machined straightedge to it and it lined up with that rib that runs the entire length of the housing so it's still straight. Might be the camera angle or something.


    Quote Originally Posted by bpare207 View Post
    That's cuz you got the 380 sized rotor-motor. I watched a video of Jang from UltimateRC test that motor, a velineon, and a tacon motor and the ezrun put out HALF THE POWER!!! Looks like a 540 can but definitely not a 540 sized rotor. Try THIS maybe?
    Actually I'm happy with the motor/esc. It seems to be rated correctly at 3300kv as compared to my Castle Creations 4600kv and 5700kv motors. I purposely chose to go with a lower kv rating because I didn't want to overpower the truck. Not that she's slow, she was a little faster than Blake's Mod Class Clod which have dual HPI 15t brushed motors. I have absolutely no cogging even with the punch control turned up, throttle is smooth even at slow speeds, and I can run it all day with no heating issues. Really not looking to seriously compete with it, just something to mess around with.
    http://www.rcmt.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1239&dateline=1394674  032

  11. #151

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    Oh gotchaaa, I was just saying that the motor itself is slower is all. Althoughhh, you could throw that in there and compete with the truck ^_~ give Redcat and CPE some street cred on the Hawaiian MT circuit :tmb but after thinking it through and reading through this thread NUMEROUS times, I think I know what truck I'm getting. I love the idea of this truck as well as its afford-ability. Some guys on here want to get a similar GTG of MT racing up here in the Massachusetts area and I think the GP is what I'm gonna roll with. Now to save up a few hundred for the truck and some batt's!

  12. #152

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpare207 View Post
    Oh gotchaaa, I was just saying that the motor itself is slower is all. Althoughhh, you could throw that in there and compete with the truck ^_~ give Redcat and CPE some street cred on the Hawaiian MT circuit :tmb but after thinking it through and reading through this thread NUMEROUS times, I think I know what truck I'm getting. I love the idea of this truck as well as its afford-ability. Some guys on here want to get a similar GTG of MT racing up here in the Massachusetts area and I think the GP is what I'm gonna roll with. Now to save up a few hundred for the truck and some batt's!
    She really is a great truck. I think people got turned off because they bought them early before the weak points were figured out. Most of the fixes/bracing are pretty simple. The hardest part for me was mounting the Clod tires the way I did because I didn't want them really wide.

    I think with the race chassis CPE is working on it could be a real contender so long as it doesn't have to meet the 8.5lb minimum weight that NRCTPA has for shafties. My truck did alright with the stock chassis but my COG was too high so I realy had to slow down in turns. I did make the finals in Outlaw Class a few times but the was more so because the other guys were making mistakes rather than my truck running well.

    Good luck with your series. Great seeing Monster Truck racing picking up again.:tmb
    http://www.rcmt.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1239&dateline=1394674  032

  13. #153

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    I keep reading through this thread, I really can't wait til I have mine. So far I've saved $40 towards it lol. I should've thought sooner to save like $10 every week, I would've had it by now :bang

  14. #154

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    Small update.

    I last raced the GP at our Fnals at the beginning of the year and tore up the body pretty bad. I also managed to puff my 2s 5000mah 20c hardcase lipo with the Castle Sidewinder/4600kv combo. So out went the esc asnd motor and in went the old Turnigy 60a/3300kv combo. I really did/do like the smoother throttle with the 3300kv anyway and I really only loss a little bit of top speed.

    But the problem then came what do I do about the battery. In the end I decided it was better to be ale to mount my higher powered 2s 5000mah 40c lipo packs. Since they wouldn't fit on the bottom of the electronics tray like I had the pther lipos I had to drop the whole tray so I could keep the lower battery position. All that required me to make room for the "Tad" brace and I also HAD to use the low profile motor mount. The result is the tray now sits nearly an inch lower.










    .
    Last edited by HawnMT; 04-11-2011 at 10:26 PM.
    http://www.rcmt.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1239&dateline=1394674  032

  15. #155

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    Quote Originally Posted by HawnMT View Post
    Small update.

    I last raced the GP at our Fnals at the beginning and tore up the body pretty bad. I also managed to puff my 2s 5000mah 20c hardcase lipo with the Castle Sidewinder/4600kv combo. So out went the esc asnd motor and in went the old Turnigy 60a/3300kv combo. I really did/do like the smoother throttle with the 3300kv anyway and I really only loss a little bit of top speed.

    But the problem then came what do I do about the battery. In the end I decided it was better to be ale to mount my higher powered 2s 5000mah 40c lipo packs. Since they wouldn't fit on the bottom of the electronics tray like I had the pther lipos I had to drop the whole tray so I could keep the lower battery position. All that required me to make room for the "Tad" brace and I also HAD to use the low profile motor mount. The result is the tray now sits nearly an inch lower.










    .
    Interesting. how does that come into play as far as suspension travel ?

  16. #156

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian34 View Post
    Interesting. how does that come into play as far as suspension travel ?
    It doesn't affect suspension travel, although how low I could mount the tray was limited by the top link mount posts on the front axle and the motor hitting the driveshaft in the rear. I did this mod so I could have the battery mounted as low as lossible in the stock chassis but still have reasonable access to change it. The lower I have the heavy parts like the motor and battery, the better for turining performance and well as overall handling of the truck.
    http://www.rcmt.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1239&dateline=1394674  032

  17. #157

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    Quote Originally Posted by HawnMT View Post
    It doesn't affect suspension travel, although how low I could mount the tray was limited by the top link mount posts on the front axle and the motor hitting the driveshaft in the rear. I did this mod so I could have the battery mounted as low as lossible in the stock chassis but still have reasonable access to change it. The lower I have the heavy parts like the motor and battery, the better for turning performance and well as overall handling of the truck.
    Cool. I might consider doing that on my truck at some point.

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    Awsome review it looks like these are good all around trucks I might just have to get one.

  19. #159

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    Quote Originally Posted by littlewhitemaxx View Post
    Awsome review it looks like these are good all around trucks I might just have to get one.
    I would also read other reviews on this truck before making that decision. I used to recommend this truck but lately I've been telling people not buy it. It has more to do with the latest batches and the problems with the radios glitching and the escs burning out. But the real disappointment is with how Redat has handled the problem, which was really to do nothing proactive and just wait for people to contact them. Even then they didn't make it easy for people to get replacement parts to fix the problems.

    My personal experiences with the truck itself has been positive but I got one early and was willing to work through the teething problems. But my own experience with Redcat support has also been disappointing. If it wasn't for the support from Brett from CPE I would've given up on the truck.
    http://www.rcmt.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1239&dateline=1394674  032

  20. #160

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    I had posted in another thread that the rear epoxied axle housing had failed after over a year in use.



    Since I had to replace the housing I decided I wanted to show how I epoxy the housings. The 2-part epoxy I use is this:



    It's made by Permatex but there are other versions of it made by Devcon and Loctite. It can be found at most hardware stores including Home Depot. This epoxy comes out cream colored and dries very hard. Those same companies also make another epoxy for plastic that dries clear and mixes as a softer liquid so it runs more. I have also used that version but it setups up longer so it runs easy and it doesn't stick as well as the cream colored one.

    I first start by cleaning and sanding the area I want to apply the epoxy to.



    You'll want to completely surround the pumpkin area and go up the sides to that ridge in the center section. If you don't go up that high it'll crack whenever the epoxy ends at. Mix enough epoxy to do half an upper or lower housing at a time, which is 1/4 of a full housing. The epoxy sets up fast so you don't want to mix too much at a time. You also don't want to mix too little because you might not get the mixture correct. The stuff goes on ugly so it hard to get it smooth.




    I usually wait an entire day for the epoxy to fully set then I use the sanding drum on my Dremel to smooth it out. It won't be perfect but I'm not concerned about that.



    After that just paint it with regular plastic paint and assemble.

    http://www.rcmt.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1239&dateline=1394674  032

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